Walk east along Shoal Bay East, go around the point where the beach elbows sharply south, and you'll come upon another mile of superb beach, Upper Shoal Bay. It's better to drive, though, because chances are you'll like this spot so much you'll want to stay (from Bay View Road, simply follow the signs for Gwen's Reggae Grill).
It's at Upper Shoal Bay that you'll walk on the whitest sand on the island - and arguably the entire Caribbean. The dazzling, snow-white scene is the result of a high concentration of oatmeal-like calcareous algae flakes, halimeda, produced by the extensive offshore reef and swept ashore here by currents.
The beach runs from the villa-dotted hills at the southern end, past Gwen's, then along a stretch of nothing but sand. Fine snorkeling is just a fin kick off the beach.
Where to Stay
Serenity Cottage ($175 to $375; 264-497-3328; www.serenity.ai) has four cottages split into one- and two-bedroom studios; as well as a restaurant and tiki bar.
Where to Play
Gwen's Reggae Grill ($$; 264-497-2120; www.gwensreggaegrill.com) is the coolest spot on the beach, with a full bar and barbecue; it's open 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., showcasing live reggae on Sundays. Shoal Bay Scuba & Watersports (264-497-4371; www.shoalbayscuba.ai) offers scuba, snorkeling and sailing trips.
Hot Stuff
Though Uncle Ernie's gets all the attention, Gwen's is the best choice when you want to spend the entire day at one place. Great drinks (try her piña colada), superior food, easy snorkeling a few feet off the beach and, best of all, a palm grove - practically the only naturally shady spot on the entire island - complete with a fleet of hammocks.
FAR NORTHEAST
There are two notable beaches at the far end of the 16-mile long island: Captain's Bay on the Atlantic side, and Windward Point Bay just around the corner on the Caribbean coast. Both are prone to rough water and strong currents and have no facilities, but they're spectacular walking beaches if you're willing to make the trek. From Windward, you can hike on the ironshore at the very tip of the island, with views of offshore Scrub Island and its leeward-side beach, as well as St. Martin and St. Barts beyond.
Hot Stuff
If you plan on spending a lot of time exploring these and other remote beaches, rent a four-wheel drive.
UPPER SHOAL BAY
