Driving out to Savannah Bay on a series of sand and gravel paths that wind through lonely scrub, you're sure that by the time the search party finds you, you'll be nothing but a pile of bleached bones. Then suddenly you round a corner and come upon a colorful shack, Palm Grove Beach Bar & Grill ($$; 264-497-4224), the only manmade structure for miles. Park here and walk between the dunes past a single raggedy palapa onto a slender arc of sand nearly a mile long, backed by sea grapes and fronted by excellent snorkeling.
Hot Stuff
For total privacy, simply carry your cooler and walk south until your legs give out. The best snorkeling, though, is close to the beach bar, which is conveniently located so you can fuel up on fresh lobster or fish and chill out with a rum punch between forays to the reef.
SOUTHEAST COAST
Heading west from Savannah Bay along the main road, there are several off-the-beaten-path bays with worthwhile beaches. Mimi's, Sea Feathers and Little Harbour are all found at the very end of rough, same-named roads. Mimi's is remote, and the seas and currents can be strong and its beach strewn with seagrass, but it's wildly beautiful. Sea Feathers/Sandy Hill Bay offers a long stretch of beach you can usually have to yourself, with interesting snorkeling around the north-side rocks. Little Harbour is a sheltered bay; its ironshore (rough limestone) coastline is softened by one large and several small sandy beaches.